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Forget bling. Watches are toning down in 2009.
The mood was subdued at the annual Salon International de la Haute Herlogerie (SIHH) watch trade show in Geneva, Switzerland, which ran from Jan. 19 through Jan.23. "These difficult times are affecting how people want to be perceived," says Ira S. Krieger, chairman and CEO of the watch company bearing his name. "Consumers don't want to go over the top."
More From Forbes.com: In Pictures: The Latest Trends In Men's Watches By The Numbers: The World's Most Expensive Watches In Pictures: Five Supreme Court Cases To Watch In Pictures: NASCAR Drivers To Watch In 2009 In Depth: Why Auctions Thrive In A Bad Economy On display: revived vintage timepieces and understated metals like stainless steel, as well as a heightened appreciation of watchmaking's traditional craftsmanship with skeleton designs that reveal a timepiece's inner mechanisms through a clear casing, and the intricate tourbillon, coveted by collectors. Patented in 1801 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the tourbillon was designed to counteract the effects of gravity by isolating parts inside a revolving cage.
The number of buyers and press who attended the trade show was down about 20% compared to 2008, but the 17 brands that exhibited their collections reported positive sales results in line with expectations, according to organizers.
While most of the collections revealed at SIHH will not be available for purchase until later in the year, retailers and watchmakers have already started incorporating toned-down pieces that focus on the mechanics, movements and basics of each brand.
Men are gravitating toward vintage watches and revamped timepieces that highlight a brand's legacy, observes Leonid Khankin, managing and creative director at watchmaker Ernst Benz. "Now it's about the historical context of the watch and a return to timelessness and modern elegance."
Corum, for example, re-issued the classic Romvlvs Steel. Originally created in 1966, this was the first watch to display the hour numerals on its outside rim. Prior to this, numbers were mounted solely on the face of the watch. Today's revamped version has the engraved Roman numerals on satin-brushed steel.
The skeleton is another old story being retold by watchmakers such as Krieger. Since the 1800s, skeleton timepieces have been admired by collectors, and in 2009 they are being looked upon as a conversation piece that doesn't scream glitz. Peer through the face of Krieger's Elite stainless steel skeleton and you will see the gears that make the watch tick.
"Watchmaking is the oldest mechanical art," notes Ernst Benz's Khankin. "Just like men are fascinated by fast cars and their inner workings, the same goes for watches. They want the most powerful models, and they are curious about how they operate."
Watchmakers are also getting away from newfangled metal combinations like tantalum, magnesium and ceramic. In 2009, it's back to basics with steel, and yellow and rose gold.
Go News Center Added by: jessie Add time: 2009/10/29 21:55:49 view >>
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